Spring has officially sprung. But while the weather is warmer and the sun is (finally) showing its face, you might find that your skin is somewhat overwhelmed. Seasonal allergies don’t just target your sinuses; your complexion bears the brunt too. And if you’re dealing with redness, itching, or mystery breakouts, you’re not alone.

“Seasonal allergies trigger the release of histamine and other inflammatory mediators in the body. Histamine drives vasodilation and itching, but more broadly the inflammatory cascade can impair epidermal barrier function,” explains Dr Nabil Jetha, Founder of Dr Nabil Jetha Clinic. “On the skin, that can show up as redness, itching, dryness, and sometimes small clusters of breakouts. As barrier function becomes compromised, transepidermal water loss increases and the skin becomes more reactive, meaning products that would normally feel completely fine can suddenly sting or irritate.”

But don’t panic – allergy season doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your skin. With a simplified routine, strategic ingredient choices, and a little environmental awareness, you can keep your complexion calm, comfortable, and genuinely glowing – even when the pollen is flying. Here’s how, according to Dr Jetha.

Hit the Reset Button

Simplify immediately. Switch to a gentle, non-foaming, fragrance-free cleanser such as CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser, Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser, or La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser. Follow with a barrier-repair moisturiser: Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Cream, Skinceuticals Epidermal Repair, or CeraVe Moisturising Cream are all good examples. Keep your routine minimal and give your skin a chance to stabilise. This isn’t the moment for exfoliating acids, retinoids, or active experimentation.

Get Into Environmental Control

Environmental control matters more than people realise. Change your pillowcase more frequently during high pollen months and avoid drying clothes or bedding outdoors when counts are high, as pollen adheres easily to fabric and hair. Keeping windows closed overnight can also reduce ongoing exposure. These small changes can meaningfully reduce cumulative skin irritation.

Understand the Acne-Allergy Connection

Inflammation and barrier disruption can dysregulate oil production and contribute to congestion. It’s common to see a combination of sensitivity and breakouts during allergy season. Resist the urge to over-correct with harsh spot treatments or aggressive exfoliation. Over-drying the skin often worsens the cycle. Instead, focus on gentle anti-inflammatory ingredients and consistent hydration to restore balance.

Chill Out (Literally)

Cold therapy can be very helpful during allergy season. An ice roller or chilled facial tool can temporarily reduce puffiness and calm visible redness by constricting superficial blood vessels. It won’t address the underlying allergic trigger, but it can visibly reduce swelling, particularly around the eyes. Just avoid applying ice directly to the skin; keep it cool, not extreme.

Know What Treatments to Postpone (and What’s Still Safe)

If the skin is visibly inflamed, itchy, or reactive, I would postpone chemical peels, strong resurfacing lasers, and microneedling. These treatments deliberately create controlled inflammation, and during allergy season the skin is already in a heightened inflammatory state, so you risk prolonging erythema or sensitivity. That doesn’t mean avoiding clinics entirely. Treatments that calm and support repair can be very helpful. LED light therapy, particularly red light, has evidence supporting its anti-inflammatory and healing effects. Hydrating, barrier-focused facials using soothing ingredients, rather than exfoliating acids, are ideal. I may also consider regenerative skin boosters or polynucleotides in carefully selected patients, provided the skin is not acutely reactive on the surface. The focus during allergy season should be repair and resilience, not intensive correction. Stabilise first, stronger treatments can wait.

Think ‘Recovery Mode’

When your immune system is in overdrive, your skin mirrors that response. The barrier becomes slightly compromised, so even your usual vitamin C or retinol might start to sting. During allergy season, I tell patients to think of their skin as being in ‘recovery mode’ – it needs calm, not correction.

The Do’s of Allergy-Season Skincare

Do prioritise barrier repair – ceramides, glycerin, panthenol, and squalane are excellent. I often recommend Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Cream or Avène Cicalfate+ when skin is visibly irritated. Do wear SPF daily, and switch to a mineral sunscreen during flare-ups, as they’re generally better tolerated. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral SPF50 is a great option—it protects without adding unnecessary irritation. 

Do gently cleanse in the evening to remove pollen build-up from the day, and consider misting with a thermal spring water, such as Avène Thermal Spring Water, before moisturising. It can help calm itching and reduce visible redness thanks to its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties.

The Don’ts

Don’t over-exfoliate in an attempt to ‘smooth’ texture. Avoid acids and strong actives such as AHAs, BHAs, retinol, retinal, and high-strength vitamin C while your skin is reactive – they can further compromise the barrier and increase stinging.

Don’t introduce multiple new products at once, and avoid fragranced or alcohol-heavy formulas. And steer clear of very hot showers, steam rooms and saunas – heat increases redness and water loss, which can make irritation worse.

Ingredients to Go For

Look for soothing ingredients such as centella asiatica, oat extract, niacinamide, panthenol, and allantoin. These help calm inflammation, support barrier repair, and reduce visible redness without overwhelming the skin. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 is a brilliant all-rounder for reactive skin.

The Under-Eye SOS

The under-eye area is particularly vulnerable because the skin is thin and we tend to rub it. Puffiness is often fluid-related. A cold compress can provide immediate relief, and caffeine-based eye creams like The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Cream can help reduce swelling. Most importantly, avoid rubbing – that’s what contributes to long-term crepiness.

The Barrier Reset Night

I recommend what I call a ‘barrier reset night’. Apply a hydrating serum such as Vichy Minéral 89, follow with a rich but gentle moisturiser like La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Cream, and if needed add a thin layer of an occlusive balm such as Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant or CeraVe Healing Ointment over the top to seal everything in. This reduces overnight water loss and helps you wake up with skin that feels calmer and less tight.

SHOP THE STORY

CeraVe ‘Hydrating Cleanser’ – £12.50

Skinceuticals Epidermal Repair – £85

Dr Jart+ ‘Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturising Cream’ – £15

La Roche-Posay ‘Cicaplast Baume B5+ Repairing Balm’ – £19.90

La Roche-Posay ‘Toleriane Dermallergo Cream’ – £24.50

Words by Frankie Jabarkhyl