In order to prepare and research for this article I type #tweenskincare into TikTok to see what comes up. And I am shocked.

Let me start  by telling you that as a mum of two boys aged 10 and 7, skincare is not a common topic of conversation in our house. However, I have learned from friends who are girl mums of kids the same age that shockingly this is not just something their kids are talking about, but also actively purchasing skincare products and indeed using them too. My initial reaction was to go into mild panic (this is not an uncommon reaction for me, as my friends well know) as a wellness editor who has spoken to multiple dermatologists, skincare brand founders and facialists what I do know is that tween skin is very young and completely changeable making it totally unsuitable for almost any product on the market that finds itself on the shelves of retailers like Sephora and Space NK. And yet, there has been a growing number of young tweens (aged 9 – 12) who are actively buying products and using them on their skin daily. My TikTok search alone revealed hoards of young girls who can’t have been older than 12 and some as young as 6 or 7 conducting their own skincare tutorials using a selection of products designed for much older skin than theirs. 

In fact, research conducted by Pai Skincare and the British Skincare Foundation has revealed that 1 in 4 UK tweens are using skincare products that contain strong active ingredients such as retinols and AHAs, which is known to harm young skin. Cut back to my TikTok search and what my hashtag also revealed was a bunch of videos with seemingly qualified Dermatology experts recommending the use of a number of skincare products for younger skin – brands that have beautiful packaging and in some cases have no doubt paid them to market their product to a young audience. It is no wonder that both young children who are watching this and parents alike are getting confused. One mum I spoke to said that her daughter as young as 11 was requesting SpaceNK vouchers for her birthday and following what influencers said on TikTok as her skincare advice. It wasn’t until she got older that she realised that many of the influencers that were spouting advice had no qualifications and had a sole purpose – to sell as much product they could so they could earn money from an affiliate code. Her mum didn’t know where to turn and how to help her, she wanted her daughter to feel included amongst her friends and this skincare trend seemed to be something that they were all into – but she also felt that maybe this was all happening too early. But without being armed with the science it’s very hard to convince a tween to think twice before purchasing potentially harmful products that look anything but. 

What You Need To Know About Tween Skin:

Unlike adult skin, which has fully developed defences, both tween and teen skin are still maturing. However, tween skin is in a critical stage of development, producing less natural oil and lacking the protective benefits of C. acnes* that emerge in later puberty. As a result, strong active ingredients like retinol and AHAs can disrupt the skin’s delicate balance, stripping away essential moisture, altering microbiome composition, and weakening the skin barrier – leading to increased sensitisation, and potentially longer term, the onset of skin conditions like eczema. A study conducted by Pai Skincare and the British Skincare Foundation, that looks at the microbiome of our skin determined that while tween skin has greater microbial diversity than teen and adult skin, it has a significantly lower proportion of a key bacterial component – C. acnes – which plays a crucial role in skin resilience and barrier function. This means that tween skin is more vulnerable to environmental stressors like harsh cosmetic ingredients making it a terrible time for your kids to start experimenting with adult skincare.

What’s more, nearly half of the 1500 girls (all aged 9-12) that were surveyed for this piece of research reported redness, itching or irritation after using skincare products. And that is just the immediate effects – who knows about the potential harm this is causing their skin in the long run. 

Other findings from the study that I found upsetting was that 43% of tweens are actively using multiple skincare products a week and 41% of tweens listen to influencers when choosing products. 

So, instead of remaining shocked and helpless I decided that Hip & Healthy needed to shed some light on the tween skincare revolution and what we can do as parents and care givers to help our children adapt to this trend without harming their skin whatsoever. So we’ve teamed up with Pai’s #StaySkinSharp campaign that has been created in conjunction with Consultant Dermatologist Dr Zainab Laftah and The British Skincare Foundation to bring you a Do’s and Don’ts Guide to navigating skin products with your little ones. 

DON’T TAKE ADVICE FROM SOCIAL MEDIA 

Tween’s skin barrier is still developing, so complex multi-step skincare routines aren’t necessary and can do more harm than good. The most important step is a daily mineral SPF for protection. If they’re eager to start a routine, an ultra-mild cleanser and a lightweight moisturiser can be introduced as gentle additions. More products doesn’t mean better skin – sometimes, they do the opposite. So, help your tween focus on healthy habits over social media hype.

DO TALK ABOUT SKINCARE AS HEALTH CARE, NOT BEAUTY

We should be framing skincare as health care, not beauty. It’s important they understand how their skin differs from adults, and why strong actives aren’t suitable. Helping tweens to recognise common terms on ingredients labels, instead of trusting marketing claims, is a powerful way to build their confidence and make informed decisions.

DO USE SPF

There’s no “one size fits all”, but it’s important to introduce the use of a daily mineral SPF for protection early on. If they want to do more, then an ultra-mild cleanser and a lightweight moisturiser can be introduced. Skincare at this age should be about protection, not perfection.

DON’T ASSUME NATURAL IS BETTER

Not always. “Natural” isn’t a regulated term, and some ingredients, like essential oils or botanical extracts, can still be highly irritating. What matters most is that products are gentle, non-sensitising, and suitable for developing skin, whether natural or not.

DON’T USE ANYTHING WITH HARSH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Research shows that nearly half (48.4%) of tweens say they use skincare because they want clearer, blemish-free skin, but many don’t realise that certain products can do more harm than good. We frequently see strong actives like retinoids, AHAs, BHAs in products marketed on social media. Recent research from Pai Skincare shows nearly 1 in 5 tweens (18.9%) are using AHAs and BHAs thinking they’ll help with breakouts. However, using these strong active ingredients at such a young age can disrupt their skin barrier. Instead of harsh actives, help them focus on gentle, protective skincare that supports their skin as it naturally develops. 

DO WAIT TILL YOU’RE OLDER

Recent research by Pai Skincare has shown that nearly half (44%) of tweens surveyed have experienced redness, itching or irritation after using skincare products. Skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all, and our skin barrier changes significantly through puberty. The skin barrier of children aged 9-12 years is not fully developed, making it far more sensitive and susceptible to damage than adult or even teen skin. Repeated use of strong actives can lead to long-term issues like barrier dysfunction, sensitivity, or even contact dermatitis.

DO GET ADVICE FROM PROFESSIONALS

Stick to reliable, expert-led sources e.g. consultant dermatologists, the British Skin Foundation or the NHS. For practical tips, Pai’s Stay Skin SHARP guide is a helpful starting point, giving parents and tweens expert-backed advice on what to avoid and how to build healthy habits.

For more information on tweens and skincare please head to: https://www.paiskincare.com/pages/tween-skincare-guide 

Words by Sadie Reid