Julia Page explores one of London’s hottest – and incidentally plant-based – restaurants and lets the alchemy unfold…

We started with a trio chocolate – a “Roasted celeriac custard with blood orange, olive oil and dark chocolate”, followed by a crystal clear and clean “Cacao pulp consommé”, with a “ White chocolate apple truffle” to conclude – and that was before we even embarked upon the exquisite 8 course plant-based tasting menu. Where could we go wrong from there?! 

Kirk and Keeley Haworth’s small but perfectly formed restaurant, set off a quiet corner in Shoreditch, has been a bit of a star, quite literally, since it jumped onto the scene in June 2024, winning it’s much deserved Michelin star in February 2025; the first plant-based restaurant in the UK to do so. This is by no means a small feat, but it is a well deserved one, and with it Plates brings a bold new meaning to vegan fine dining, re-writing the rules of how exceptional plant-centred gastronomy can be. Their food is first and foremost focused upon the importance of flavour and a passion for nature, and their emphasis on sustainability and championing organic British seasonal produce is reflected in all they do. The dishes were profoundly thoughtful and were put together with an innate sense of grace and mastery, with stand out plates being the “Barbecued Maitake mushroom” with black bean mole, kimchi and puffed rice, which just popped and melted in your mouth, alongside their signature dish of “Potato, seaweed and sweet & sour apricot”, which was comfort in a bowl. “White onion soup with toasted almond and liquorice” was memorable too, as was their “Flavours of banoffee pie”, a dreamy pot of sweet banana, syrupy caramel and flecks of bitter cocoa, which was the first of two mouthwatering puddings. 

The sublime food was only enhanced by the team’s intelligently curated cocktail list, with the likes of a “Blood orange & gochujang paloma” and a “Redcurrant & bayleaf spritz” on offer, alongside a crisp and perfectly delivered “Meadowsweet martini”, which kicked the evening off to a heady start and got us well in the mood. 

However, one of the best things about Plates, along with the immaculate and utterly charming service – Kirk himself personally introduced most courses – was that the food also felt truly considered and nourishing without being in any way lacking, and we felt perfectly replete and quite honestly gleaming after the whole experience.  This is because Plates exceptionality is not just about flavour but it is about functionality and wellbeing too. Kirk’s own journey with health has very much influenced and inspired his food and what he does, and it was following his own battle with Lyme disease in 2017 that he sought to restore his health by pursuing a plant-based diet, focussing on the most nourishing of ingredients and drawing on the principals of gut health and anti-inflammatory cooking. And it is this that makes Plates so unique and remarkable. Absolutely divine food that is vegan, but delivers magic, healing, satisfaction and explosive flavour to all who eat it. Kirk is simply a genius and it is a privilege to enjoy his work. 

It is worth mentioning that getting our table was a challenge in itself, Kirk’s fame and fan base being such that you have to sign up well ahead to receive booking alerts, with booking slots going live 6 months in advance and tables being swallowed up within minutes. But once this Glastonbury-esque feat is achieved and your table is secured, you are in for a total treat. 

Kirk and Keeley’s devotion to nature runs through into the restaurant’s subtle and minimalist yet quietly luxurious interiors. Think soft concrete textures, creamy wood and gentle lighting, all of which allow the food to take centre stage and command your full attention. The intimate space – there are only 25 covers hence the scramble for bookings – is centred around an open kitchen where you can see Kirk and his team of absurdly talented chefs work their magic with an almost mediative precision. They are fronted by a beautiful bar, or “Chefs table”, that is hand-crafted from repurposed felled London trees, again nodding to the focus on sustainability and provenance.  

The atmosphere within, which was only enhanced by the faultless service, was surprisingly romantic and the combination of this with the continuous flow of wonders and surprises that kept coming our way made for a truly dreamy evening. 

Plates isn’t just one of London’s best vegan restaurants; it is one of London’s best restaurants in general, taking thoughtful, enlightened and quite frankly sensational dining to a new level. I just wish you luck trying to bag a table …

Plates offer an 8 course tasting menu, £109. With Wine Pairing, £70, Non-alcoholic Pairing, £55

Plates Restaurant:
320 Old Street, London EC1V 9DR
Call: 020 8050 6682
www.plates-london.com