Words by Nicola de Burlet
When I hit midlife, my skin, which had never been problematic suddenly went haywire – spots, redness, sensitivity – you name it, I had it. Products that had been my go-to for years suddenly gave me angry allergic reactions leaving me with hot, red reactive skin that only antihistamines would sort out and spots that I had never suffered from as a teen.
Life is hectic enough at this stage in life without skin issues and I personally have never been a fan of 12 step skincare routines, so I decided to go back to basics and have a skincare reset. Midlife is a time of massive change, specifically during peri menopause and menopause, our hormones are fluctuating on a daily basis and as such we may need to change our routine, but where to start?
Simple, but make it effective
I grew up with the Clinique 3 step and have always been a religious cleanse, tone, moisturise girl, so am keen on a streamlined routine that won’t compromise on results.
The fact is older skins don’t retain moisture in the same way as it did in our youth, so it’s all about protecting and nourishing your skin barrier. The skin is the largest organ in the body and our skin barrier is the natural oil layer that covers it thus providing protection from the external elements.
Advances in biotech and smarter formulations mean we have hybrid formulations that cleanse while hydrating, exfoliate while soothing, or protect while perfecting the skin’s appearance. In this way, we can cut the time spent on our routines and have great looking skin– a win win in my book. With such a huge choice available to us, its key to pick the right products for you and your budget.
What Is Multi-Purpose Skincare?
Cleansers, for example, are no longer just about removing dirt and oil. Hydrating cleansers incorporate ingredients like glycerin and ceramides to support the skin barrier, while exfoliating cleansers use gentle acids to refine texture as they cleanse. This dual functionality means the skin is not only clean but also nourished or renewed in a single step.
Toners have undergone a similar transformation. Once considered a basic preparatory step, they now often act as treatment products. Modern toners may hydrate with hyaluronic acid, exfoliate with polyhydroxy acids, or target concerns like dullness and uneven tone with niacinamide. These formulations blur the line between toner, essence, and serum.
Serums, too, are evolving. Many now double as primers, combining active ingredients with smoothing agents that create a soft-focus finish on the skin. Others merge with moisturisers, offering lightweight hydration alongside targeted treatment, making them ideal for those of us seeking efficiency without compromising performance.
Even moisturisers and sunscreens have embraced this hybrid approach. Moisturisers frequently include actives like vitamin C or retinol, while SPF products now incorporate skincare benefits such as antioxidants and hydration. Tinted formulas further extend their role, offering light coverage that bridges the gap between skincare and makeup.
Less products, but more targeted
I spoke to skincare guru extraordinaire, Caroline Hirons, who has a very pragmatic and refreshing approach to skincare and subscribes to the less is more approach. She says: “We all have specific skincare concerns at this age, so prioritise gentle, creamy cleansers that will cleanse, but also hydrate; encourage skin renewal by adding in a chemical exfoliant in the form of a gentle acid a few times a week to remove dead skin cells and smooth skin and last but not least, integrate an antioxidant/vitamin C serum into your routine to protect skin and help preserve declining collagen levels”.
We all (should) know that protecting the skin from environmental damage at any age is important and I always wear an spf 30-50 every day under my make up whatever the season. Caroline also suggests Investing in a good facial oil that will really help lock in moisture and give skin a glow. For those confused about when to use a facial oil, because I was, these typically go after or instead of your serums, but before your moisturiser – use day or night, to lock in hydration.
Key Ingredients to bookmark: Caroline’s top tips
Peptides: are great for ageing skin (as they are essentially fragments of proteins like our collagen and elastin) that help with skin firmness and strength.
Ceramides: play a crucial role in skin health, barrier support and hydration.
Lipid-rich formulas: (think squalane, phytosterols, vitamin E and plant oils such as jojoba, avocado and macadamia) that optimise moisture.
Retinoids: for any skin ageing concerns, nothing beats retinoids. They are the gold standard for improving cell turnover, targeting fine lines and wrinkles and boosting radiance. However, during menopause, the skin can be more sensitive, so always start with a low-strength and gradually increase the frequency of use/strength as the skin builds tolerance. Use them before your moisturiser at night and always follow with SPF in the morning.
My favourite hybrid products to try:
Clementine Antioxidant Cleansing Balm – Bramley, £36
This cleansing balm contains oleic and linoleic fatty acids and melts into a beautiful, rich oil before turning into a milky emulsion as you apply it to your skin. I use it at the end of the day to remove make up, impurities and it leaves my skin feeling hydrated and soothed.
Skin rocks – The Gentle Acid, £53
A decongesting exfoliating acid toner that contains alpha-hydroxy and polyhydroxy acids (AHAs and PHA) to visibly even skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, minimise the appearance of pores and refine skin texture.
Merit – Great Skin Serum, £35
A bi-phase serum that improves tone and clarity and gives a glow, it pairs 2% niacinamide to support brighter, more even-looking skin with hyaluronic acid in four molecular weights to replenish moisture at multiple layers of the skin’s surface.
Cerave AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF 50 , £17
I bulk buy this product as I use it every single day – it’s super light, provides UVB/UVA protection, contains hyaluronic acid and 3 essential ceramides, it also works well under make up and doesn’t leave a white cast.
Curated Beauty Flawless Defence SPF50 Primer, £45
If your favourite moisturiser doesn’t have any SPF protection, never fear, this clever primer from Curated Beauty, provides a punchy SPF50 and a blurring function as well as anti oxidant protection and is perfect under make up.
Retinoid 1-3 Skin Rocks, £70
Caroline says “Retinoids are fantastic for multiple skin concerns and are the ‘gold standard’ in anti-ageing skincare”. They help to target numerous concerns including fine lines, wrinkles, breakouts, congestion, skin texture and dullness. They work to increase skin cell turnover, which is what helps improve signs of ageing and promote a smooth, glowing, even skin tone. Depending on your skin sensitivity, start slow, 1 or 2 days a week at level one and build up to 3 times a week to level 3.
