In this edition of Hip & Healthy’s Beauty School series, we’re shining a spotlight on polynucleotides – aka the key ingredient in salmon sperm facials. Yes, you heard that right. It’s been a thing in the beauty world, and now, the science behind it is making its way into mainstream skincare in a less… fishy way. These little wonders are derived from (among other sources) salmon DNA, and they’re seriously changing the skincare game. Think of them as tiny repair workers for your skin, boosting collagen and elastin for a fresher, younger-looking you. Inside scoop? Millie Mackintosh revealed to us here that she’s a huge fan.
But what exactly are they and how should we be using them in our skincare routine? We tapped Dr. Brendan Khong to find out everything you need to know. So, get ready to swot up on this must-have beauty ingredient and bag yourself an A+ when it comes to all things polynucleotides.
So, What Exactly Are Polynucleotides and What Do They Do?
Polynucleotides (PN) are fragments of DNA that are highly purified and obtained by different sources, commonly salmon and trout. This is where the “salmon sperm facial” comes from. PNs are long chains of nucleic acids such as DNA or RNA.
PNs are able to bind directly on the cell receptors of fibroblast cells, increase gene expression and subsequent production of collagen and elastin. PNs also have the ability to attract water to increase hydration and plumpness in the skin. PNs also have antioxidant properties and are able to scavenge free radicals, which can breakdown collagen fibres.
At a vascular level (blood vessel level), PNs can promote angiogenesis (increase of blood vessels and blood flow), which can help with micro-circulation, improving skin tone, darkness, and hair growth. PNs also combat inflammation by down-regulating pro-inflammatory cytokines and up-regulating anti-inflammatory cytokines, which makes it good for post procedures such as surgery and lasers.
When used in certain facial fat pads, it can help to prevent breakdown of fat to help preserve facial fat pads, the hallmark of a youthful face. Similarly, when injected near bone, PNs can prevent bone resorption, which occurs with age.
The combination of the above can help with combating signs of ageing, including sagging skin, crepey skin, fine lines and wrinkles, dark under eye circles, and skin tightening.
Can All Skin Types Benefit from It?
Absolutely! It is a great treatment for patients with mild signs of ageing and great for mature skins with more advanced signs of ageing. The quality of skin is being treated and improved, which makes it unique from anti-wrinkle or filler treatments, which address the symptoms of ageing.
What’s the Best Way to Incorporate Them into a Skincare Routine?
A daily skincare routine that is personalised for your skin type is incredibly important. The day time skincare routine is centred around protection, with antioxidants and SPF, whereas night time skincare routine is centred around repair and retention with active ingredients.
PNs can be delivered into the skin via micro-injections or microneedling. Micro-injections can be performed in a course of 3-4 sessions, 3-4 weeks apart. Microneedling can be performed once every 4-6 weeks.
What Are the Pros and Cons of Using Them?
Pros: Hydrated, healthy, and dewy skin. Crepey skin becomes thicker and less fragile, increased collagen and elastin production, lifted facial contours, reduced fine lines and wrinkles.
Cons: it is not uncommon for patients to experience some swelling, puffiness, and bruises post-treatment with PN.
Are There Any Misconceptions about Polynucleotides You Want to Clear Up?
There’s a common misconception that PNs change your genetic code – it doesn’t! PNs do not integrate into your genome to change your DNA. Instead, it only stimulates genes to switch on/off.
There is also a misconception that PNs are synthetic chemicals. In fact, most polynucleotides are made from natural sources, such as salmon DNA, which are highly compatible with human skin and are safe and effective.
Any other interesting facts you’d like to share about Polynucleotides that people might not know…
Scientists are exploring ways to utilise polynucleotides (such as DNA) to store information. 1 gram of polynucleotide can store 215 petabytes (215 million GB) of information!
words by Frankie Rozwadowska
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