Words by Frankie Jabarkhyl
In this edition of Hip & Healthy’s Beauty School series, we’re shining a spotlight on rice extract – the multitasking ingredient known for its hydrating, brightening and antioxidant properties. As Dr Christine Hall, GP, aesthetics doctor and Korean skincare expert, explains, “Ferulic acid, the antioxidant that makes premium vitamin C serums more effective and more expensive, occurs naturally in rice. Although the doses within rice extract remain low, it’s still a very useful ingredient to have.” Its beauty origins are equally fascinating. “The ingredient’s origin is lovely: it was reportedly the observation that those who washed rice frequently and sake brewers had remarkably youthful hands that first drew the beauty industry’s attention to it.”
But what exactly does rice extract do, and how does it work to keep skin healthy and hydrated? We tapped Dr Hall to find out everything you need to know. So, get ready to swot up on this trending beauty ingredient and bag yourself an A+ when it comes to all things rice.
So, what exactly is rice extract and what does it do?
Rice extract is derived from rice grains or the water used to wash, soak or ferment them, and it is rich in amino acids, vitamins B and E, minerals and antioxidants such as ferulic acid. In skincare it brightens, softens and supports the skin barrier, and fermented versions also deliver gentle enzymatic exfoliation. It has centuries of use in Korean and Japanese beauty behind it.
Can all skin types benefit from it?
Yes, and that is part of its appeal. It’s one of the gentlest brightening ingredients we have, so it suits sensitive and reactive skin that cannot tolerate stronger actives like vitamin C or retinoids. Oily and congested skin benefits from the mild exfoliating effect of fermented rice, while drier skin gains from its humectant, barrier-supporting properties.
What’s the best way to incorporate it into a skincare routine?
Rice works at almost any step: cleansers, essences, serums or masks. For most people I would suggest a leave-on format such as an essence or serum applied after cleansing, so the actives stay on the skin. Whilst cleansing in itself is important, you don’t get as many benefits from the ingredients within a cleanser, because you wash most of it off. Rice extract itself layers happily with almost everything, including retinoids and acids, which makes it an easy addition rather than a routine overhaul. Korean clinical brands do this especially well, Anua’s rice range and Dr Melaxin’s Peel Shot Rice range, now in Boots, are good high street examples.
What are the pros and cons of using it?
The pros are gentleness, hydration, brightening, barrier support and antioxidant protection, with very low irritation risk. The honest cons: results are gradual rather than dramatic, so it will not replace prescription strength treatments for pigmentation or acne, and as with any botanical, a true rice allergy, though rare, would rule it out. It is a supporting player that most skins tolerate beautifully.
Are there any misconceptions about it?
The biggest is that homemade rice water does what the bottled versions do. DIY rice water is unstable, unpreserved and can harbour bacteria within days, and its actives are present at unpredictable levels. Properly formulated rice extracts are stabilised and concentrated and deliver more results. The other misconception is that rice only brightens, when its barrier and antioxidant benefits are arguably more valuable.
SHOP THE EDIT:
Dr.Melaxin ‘Peel Shot Exfoliating White Rice Ampoule’ – £21
Chantecaille ‘Rice And Geranium Foaming Cleanser’- £68
Anua ‘Rice 70 Glow Milky Toner’ – £22
Beauty of Joseon ‘Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Alpha Arbutin’ – £18
